For most of the year, the water in Northern Colorado is fairly cold. This causes your water heater to work harder and can lead to higher energy bills. However, simply lowering your water heater temperature setting is not necessarily the best option. By reaching out to Balance Point Heating, Cooling & Plumbing for your plumbing repairs and maintenance, you can get help adjusting your settings and troubleshooting common issues.

The Short Answer

For most homes, the best water heater temperature is around 120 degrees Fahrenheit. At this setting, you get a good balance of energy savings, safety, and hot water. However, the right number will depend on your household’s needs. The sections below cover the trade-offs at higher and lower settings, how to check your actual water temperature, and how to adjust it safely. If you are experiencing inexplicably high energy bills or other concerning situations, you may need to reach out for professional water heater services.

Why the Recommended Setting Works

So, what temperature should my water heater be? You’ll generally see 120 degrees as the most common recommendation because it sits between two extremes. It provides the maximum energy savings and scald protection while still providing enough hot water.

• Energy Savings: Each degree you lower the setting reduces the amount of energy the unit needs to maintain stored hot water, helping decrease standby heat loss. This is especially true if you have a water heater tank and not a tankless water heater. Even when you are not using hot water, a tank water heater still consumes energy to maintain the temperature of the stored water. By lowering an overly hot setting, you can quickly save money on your energy costs.
• Scald Safety: If your water temperature is above the recommended range, it can burn skin more quickly. This is a greater concern if you have vulnerable household members, such as children or elderly family members. Using the appropriate setting can meaningfully lower that risk.
• Adequate Hot Water: At 120 degrees, your water is still hot enough for comfortable showers, dishwashing, and daily use.

However, there are scenarios where a higher temperature may make sense. If your household has high simultaneous hot water demand, a higher storage temperature combined with a properly installed mixing valve can increase the amount of usable hot water.

The Scald Risk at High Settings

There are two potential safety risks involved in deciding on the right water heater temperature settings, but you can address both of them with a simple adjustment. The hotter the water is, the faster it can scald your skin. This means that the time it takes to develop a serious burn falls as the temperature rises.

The good news is that the risk of scalding can be reduced by lowering the water temperature. It is especially important to be proactive about your temperature settings if there are young children, older adults, or other vulnerable family members in your home.

If you do need hotter stored water for your household’s demand, there are safe ways to do so. A thermostatic mixing valve can allow you to maintain higher temperatures in the tank while delivering water at safer temperatures at the tap. Installing this valve is not a DIY project, so reach out for a professional installation.

The Bacteria Concern at Low Settings

While you may want to lower the water heater temperature to save money, there is such a thing as a setting that is too low. Very low temperatures for long periods can allow bacteria, like Legionella, to start growing in your tank. This is why it is important to balance the risk of bacterial growth in stored water with the risk of scalding at higher temperatures.

In households that have immune-compromised members, it may be advisable to keep your settings on the higher side. Then, you can use mixing valves to ensure the water temperature coming from the tap does not scald anyone. However, you should always talk to a medical professional about which protective measures are necessary for vulnerable members of your family.

How to Check and Adjust Safely

While you can check and adjust some water heater temperature settings yourself, there are situations where you should reach out for professional help. On many electric units, the thermostat sits behind panels near live wiring, so this is not a task you should handle on your own. Additionally, you should never force a stuck dial or open sealed compartments on any type of heater.

To make sure your water heater has the right settings, use the following steps.

• Measure First: The first step is to run the hot water at your tap. With a thermometer, measure the temperature. Dial markings are often inaccurate, so this is the best way to see what temperature is actually being produced.
• Locate the Thermostat: On a gas unit, you’ll generally find the thermostat dial near the bottom of the tank. Electric units generally have thermostats behind access panels. Because this is an electrical safety risk, you should leave opening panels and adjusting the temperature on electric tanks to the professionals.
• Adjust Gradually: Make small changes to the thermostat temperature. Then, wait several hours for the tank’s temperature to stabilize and re-measure the water at the tap.

If the measured temperature doesn’t match the setting or the temperature will not hold steady, you may be dealing with a heating-element or thermostat problem. In this case, you should call for Fort Collins water heater service. 

When to Call Balance Point

While some adjustments can be handled on your own, you should call for professional help if you experience any of the following situations.

• The water heater is too hot at a lower setting, indicating a potentially faulty thermostat.
• Your household has young children, older adults, or vulnerable family members who need scald protection, so you want a mixing valve installed.
• The temperature will not remain steady, or the water only becomes lukewarm.
• The tank isn’t producing any hot water.
• The unit is electric, and you cannot adjust the thermostat without being near live wiring.
• You notice symptoms of a failing unit, such as rust-colored water, inconsistent heating, or unusual noises.

Our team can help you quickly determine the underlying problem and the best repair solution. Afterward, our membership plan makes planning routine inspections and maintenance easy.

FAQs

What temperature should my water heater be set to? 

For the majority of homes, 120 degrees is the recommended setting. This temperature balances energy savings, scald safety, and an adequate level of hot water. However, the correct temperature can vary based on your household’s needs.

Does lowering my water heater temperature really save money? 

Yes, it will if your current temperature is higher than necessary. When a water heater is set too warm, the unit expends extra energy maintaining the temperature. By lowering an excessively hot setting, you can save money on your energy bills.

Is 140 degrees too hot for a water heater? 

By setting your water heater to 140 degrees, you can increase the scald risk significantly, especially for children and older adults. Most households will do better at a lower setting. If you need a higher storage temperature, it is a good idea to install a mixing valve to prevent scalding.

Can setting my water heater too low be unsafe? 

If you set your water heater temperature too low, it can increase the likelihood of bacterial growth. This is one of the main reasons why 120 degrees is the standard recommendation.

How do I know my water heater’s real temperature?

Dial markings are often inaccurate, so the best option is to measure the temperature at the tap with a thermometer.

Find the Right Temperature Settings for Your Water Heater

Want to optimize your water heater temperature setting for savings and safety? Balance Point can check your setting and install scald protection. We offer upfront pricing, same-day services, and a money-back guarantee in the Fort Collins and Loveland areas.

We will quickly adjust your settings, explain the best options for your water heater, and help you decide on the right solution.

Schedule your water heater maintenance and repairs today.

In Fort Collins, drastic temperature swings can strain furnaces and expose underlying issues that were not apparent during milder weather. Airflow problems, overheating, and other issues can cause the furnace to cycle on and off rapidly, which is known as short cycling. Because a furnace’s short cycling can indicate an underlying issue with your heating system, it is important to reach out to Balance Point Heating, Cooling & Plumbing for repairs before colder weather arrives.

What Short Cycling Means

Short cycling is when a furnace starts, runs for a short time, then shuts off before it fully heats the home. Because the home has not reached the right temperature, the furnace starts again shortly afterward, and the cycle repeats.

A furnace that starts and stops frequently is not just an annoyance. Short cycling leads to excessive energy usage, uneven home heating, and unnecessary wear on the furnace’s ignition and other components.

The pattern becomes more noticeable during a cold snap. During a cold snap, furnaces typically run longer heating cycles to meet increased heating demand, rather than repeatedly shutting off after brief periods.

Homeowner-Fixable Causes to Check First

So, why does my furnace short cycle? There are a few common reasons for a furnace cycling too often that you can address on your own. If the following troubleshooting tips do not work, you’ll need to reach out for professional help.

• Dirty Air Filters: By far, this is the most common reason for short cycling. A clogged air filter restricts airflow, which causes the furnace to overheat. In turn, this triggers the safety limit to shut down the furnace before it finishes its cycle. To troubleshoot this cause, check the air filter and replace it as needed.
• Closed or Blocked Vents and Returns: Like a dirty air filter, blocked vents and returns can restrict airflow. This results in an overheating shutdown. This problem can be easily fixed by checking every vent and return to see whether they are open and unobstructed.
• Thermostat Settings or Location: A thermostat that is next to a vent, in direct sunlight, or near a drafty window can read the room’s temperature inaccurately, leading to short cycles. An unusual thermostat schedule or incorrect settings can produce the same symptom. You can troubleshoot this issue by checking the thermostat settings and location.
• Thermostat Batteries or Wiring: If the thermostat is starting to fail or the batteries run low, it can send inconsistent signals. Try replacing the batteries. You can test whether the thermostat is communicating properly by raising the temperature above the current room temperature and checking whether the furnace turns on.

The Overheating Shutdown Explained

One of the main mechanisms behind a furnace cycling too often is the high-limit safety shutdown. When a furnace is overheating, a shutoff occurs to prevent the heat exchanger from reaching damaging temperatures. After it shuts off, the fan may continue running for a while to cool the furnace down before the furnace tries again. This results in a repeated on-off pattern.

The problem is not the safety shutdown. A furnace performs this shutdown to protect itself. The real issue is the underlying airflow problem or other fault that is causing the overheating. Depending on the cause, you may need to replace the filter, fix your ductwork, or repair the blower.

Technician-Level Causes

If your airflow and thermostat are fine, then you’re likely dealing with a component or system-wide issue. To avoid additional damage, you’ll need to have a heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) technician investigate the cause. Once we’ve narrowed down the issue, we can recommend the best Fort Collins furnace repair for your needs.

• Flame-Sensor or Ignition Fault: If your furnace lights but cannot sustain the flame, it will shut down. A flame sensor that cannot confirm the flame will trigger an automatic shutdown and retry. 
• Blocked Flue or Venting: When the flue or venting is blocked, it will trigger a safety shutdown to prevent exhaust fumes from flowing back into your home.
• Failing Blower Motor: A blower motor that is not working properly will lead to poor airflow, resulting in an overheating shutdown.
• Control Board or Limit-Switch Problems: A faulty control board can disrupt the heating cycle, while a defective limit switch may shut off the burners even when the furnace isn’t overheating.
• Condensate or Pressure-Switch Faults: On high-efficiency furnaces, a clogged drain or pressure-related issue can interrupt the cycle and cause short cycling.
• Oversized Furnaces: When a furnace is oversized for the home, it can heat the space too quickly, causing the thermostat to reach its setpoint and shut off the furnace prematurely. Then, it restarts a short time later once the temperature falls again. This is a sizing and installation issue that occurs when the furnace was not properly matched to the home when it was originally chosen.

Why Short Cycling Is Worth Fixing Promptly

While repairing the furnace may cost more initially, delaying repairs will increase your total costs over time. A furnace that is short cycling will lead to higher energy bills. Each start is harder on components than simply running longer, so short cycling results in accelerated wear on the igniter, blower, flame sensor, and control board.

Besides the energy efficiency and long-term repair costs, a furnace’s short cycling impacts your comfort. Your home may struggle to reach a steady, even temperature, resulting in chillier rooms. Because overheating and venting faults can cause short cycling, the pattern may also be an early indication of a safety issue.

You can also make repairing your furnace easier on your budget through our flexible financing options. Our HVAC membership plan can help you prevent future breakdowns through complimentary furnace tune-ups.

Safe Checks Before You Call

Before you reach out for help, there are a few safe checks you can perform yourself. For your safety, you should never open the burner compartment, bypass or reset safety switches repeatedly, or adjust the gas valve. Additionally, do not keep forcing a furnace to run when it keeps shutting down.

• Check 1: Replace your air filter. Then, verify that the vents and returns are open and unobstructed.
• Check 2: Verify that your thermostat has the right mode and setpoint. It should not be in direct sun or near airflow.
• Check 3: Pay attention to how long each cycle is and how long it takes to restart.
• Check 4: Note any lockouts, error codes, or odd sounds that occur.

When to Call Balance Point

As a homeowner, it can be hard to tell when a furnace symptom is a minor inconvenience and when it’s a sign of a major problem. If you experience any of the following signs, we recommend calling for help right away.

• You’ve changed the filter and checked your thermostat settings, but the furnace continues to short cycle.
• You notice a gas odor. If this occurs, immediately evacuate your home and call 911 or your gas utility provider from a safe location outside.
• The furnace keeps overheating.
• Your home cannot reach or hold a comfortable temperature during a cold snap. 
• In addition to short cycling, you notice unusual noises, soot, or a burning odor.
• The furnace shows an error code.

If your furnace keeps turning on and off during a cold snap, our team offers emergency repair services. We’ll quickly diagnose the issue and help you decide on the right solution.

FAQs

Why does my furnace keep turning on and off? 

Restricted airflow is the most frequent reason for a furnace overheating and triggering the safety limit. Often, this is due to a dirty air filter. Problems with your venting, thermostat, sizing, or ignition can also result in a furnace turning on and off frequently.

Is furnace short cycling dangerous? 

A furnace’s safety shutdown is a protective feature and is not inherently dangerous. However, the cause of the shutdown may be dangerous, especially if overheating or venting issues are involved.

Can a dirty filter cause short cycling? 

A dirty air filter is the leading cause of short cycling. By replacing your clogged filter, you may be able to resolve your short cycling without needing a service call.

Why is my furnace short cycling only during cold snaps? 

Cold snaps lead to heavy demand, which can expose the airflow, ignition, and sizing issues that are less obvious during milder weather.

Does an oversized furnace cause short cycling? 

An oversized furnace can result in short cycling because it heats the home too quickly and shuts off. Then, it has to restart repeatedly to maintain the home’s temperature.

Address Your Furnace’s Short Cycling Before Winter Arrives

Are you experiencing furnace short cycling during the cold weather? Balance Point can help with our same-day diagnostics and upfront pricing in the Fort Collins and Loveland areas.

Our team will quickly work to find the cause, explain your options clearly, and help you determine the next step without any pressure.

Book your furnace repairs today.

As heating season approaches in Fort Collins, Loveland, and Northern Colorado, it is important for homeowners to perform gas fireplace maintenance. Gas fireplaces sit unused during the summer, letting debris, dust, and the occasional insect nest build up. Before the first use of the year, schedule a gas fireplace inspection with Balance Point Heating, Cooling & Plumbing.

Why a Pre-Season Check Matters

When the first cold evening of the year arrives, many homeowners reach for their fireplaces for warmth. However, before you turn your fireplace on, you need to perform a pre-season gas fireplace check. Months of sitting idle can allow dust and debris to build up on the burner. Bird nests and pests can also take up residence. The ignition system and burner components have also gone months without running.

For all of these reasons, you need to perform a safety check. You need to be completely confident that your gas fireplace is ready before you actually need it. Besides performing basic checks and maintenance yourself, there are also specific tests that can be handled by a professional heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) technician during a scheduled inspection.

Homeowner-Safe Checks Before First Use

While certain tasks should be left to the experts, there are a few homeowner-safe checks you can do to see whether your gas fireplace is ready for fall and winter.

1. Clear the Area: First, verify that there is nothing flammable stored near or in front of the fireplace. 
2. Inspect the Glass and Surround: Check the glass and surround for any gaps or cracks. Note if there are any loose panels. If there is anything wrong with the glass, you should not operate the unit.
3. Look for Dust and Debris: After a long summer spent idle, it’s common for there to be dust on the logs or burner. If there is, follow the manufacturer’s guidance to lightly clean off the dust.
4. Check the Exterior of Your Venting: From the outside of your home, verify that the vent termination isn’t obstructed by nests or leaves.
5. Test the Ignition Once: Try out the unit to see if it lights properly. The flame should be steady and blue. Note if there are any unusual smells.
6. Confirm Your Detectors Are in Working Order: Test the carbon monoxide (CO) and smoke detectors that are near the gas fireplace. Then, replace the batteries as needed.

For your safety, you should never attempt to disassemble the burner or gas components. You should not clean inside the gas valve area or attempt to operate the fireplace if there is a gas odor. Additionally, never run a fireplace that has a yellow or sooty flame.

What a Yellow Flame or Soot Is Telling You

When it comes to gas fireplace maintenance, the flame color and presence of soot are meaningful indications of a problem. A healthy gas flame should be mostly blue and steady. If the flame is persistently yellow, lazy, or flickering, it indicates incomplete combustion. Besides producing soot, incomplete combustion can also cause CO to build up. Any unusual odor or soot buildup on the glass and logs is a sign that you should immediately stop using the fireplace and schedule fireplace maintenance.

What a Professional Inspection Covers

While you can handle some of the maintenance work on your own, other tasks require professional help. When one of our HVAC technicians comes to your home, they’ll go through the following steps to make sure your fireplace is ready for winter.

• Venting and Flue Inspection: First, the technician will confirm that the vent is clear, intact, and drawing properly. This step is essential for indoor air quality and CO safety.
• Burner and Pilot Cleaning: Next, the technician will clean away dust and debris. By doing so, they can ensure clean, complete combustion.
• Gas Connection and Valve Check: The technician will inspect for any indications of leaks and ensure your valves are operating properly.
• Ignition System Service: Afterward, the technician will check your pilot light, igniter, and thermocouple.
• Combustion and Flame Quality: The technician will verify that the flame is burning cleanly and your unit is venting safely.

We typically recommend scheduling your gas fireplace cleaning and inspection in the fall before the heating season arrives. Like furnace tune-ups, gas fireplace tune-ups should be scheduled once per year.

The Carbon Monoxide Point

Learning how to maintain a gas fireplace is important because of the safety risks involved. Any gas-burning appliance creates combustion byproducts. When a gas fireplace or furnace is functioning properly, these byproducts are vented safely outside your home. If there is a blocked vent or incomplete combustion, CO becomes a real risk for your family.

As a homeowner, it is essential to protect your home from CO gas. You should always have working CO detectors in your home. To avoid hazardous CO buildup, you should never use a fireplace that smells of gas, produces excessive soot, or has an abnormal flame pattern. For your protection, we also recommend having your unit professionally inspected once per year.

When to Call Balance Point

Sometimes, it can be hard to tell when a problem is a minor issue and when it requires professional help. If you notice any of the following signs, you should reach out to our team for professional help.

• Gas Odors: A gas or sulfur-like odor can indicate a gas leak and should be treated as an emergency. You should immediately evacuate the home and, once you are in a safe location, call your gas utility or emergency services.
• Yellow, Sooty, or Unsteady Flames: A flickering or yellow flame is a sign of incomplete combustion. Soot buildup on the glass or logs also means that there is likely a combustion issue.
• Pilot Light Problems: Call for help if the fireplace will not light, or the pilot light will not stay lit.
• Venting Blockages: If there is debris, a nest, or any other blockage in the vent, you should have it cleaned by a professional.
• Lack of Maintenance: You should schedule an inspection if it has been more than a year since your unit was checked by a technician.

FAQs

How often should a gas fireplace be serviced? 

You should generally schedule your Fort Collins gas fireplace service at least once a year. Like a furnace tune-up, this appointment should generally occur before the heating season begins. By booking your annual service, you can keep your combustion clean and venting safe.

Can I clean my gas fireplace myself? 

There are maintenance tasks you can handle yourself, but certain tasks should only be handled by professionals. You can safely test your ignition, dust the exterior of the fireplace, and check your home’s detectors. Anything involving venting, burners, or gas should be handled by a technician.

Why is my gas fireplace flame yellow instead of blue? 

If you notice a persistently yellow flame, it is likely due to incomplete combustion. When this occurs, the fireplace can produce additional soot and carbon monoxide. Because of the risks involved, you should immediately stop using the unit and schedule professional service.

Why won’t my gas fireplace light after the summer? 

A gas fireplace not lighting may be due to a problem with the pilot light or electronic ignition system. After months of sitting idle, the unit could also be dealing with a dusty igniter or a faulty component. No matter what the cause, the safest option is to call our technicians for a diagnostic appointment.

Do I need a carbon monoxide detector if I have a gas fireplace? 

Yes. Any gas-burning fireplace can produce carbon monoxide if something isn’t working right, so you need a functional CO detector to keep your family safe.

Prepare Your Fireplace for Cooler Weather

Are you preparing your fireplace for fall? Balance Point offers pre-season gas fireplace maintenance and inspections with upfront pricing in Fort Collins and Loveland. With our convenient financing and membership options, you can easily get support with all of your maintenance and repair needs.

Our team will check over your fireplace, explain any issues we find clearly, and help you enjoy a safe, comfortable first fire of the season.

Schedule your fireplace inspection by calling us at 970-345-3361.

How long does a furnace last? Furnaces can last longer when they are well cared for and set up properly. In Fort Collins, Loveland, and Northern Colorado, our area’s altitude means there is less oxygen available per volume of air. Because of the effect this has on gas combustion, it is especially important for units to be set up properly. If you are uncertain whether your furnace was installed properly, you can reach out to Balance Point Heating, Cooling & Plumbing for professional diagnostic and repair services.

The Realistic Answer

So, how long does a furnace last? Realistically, a furnace can last around 15 to 20 years if it is maintained properly. However, a lot of factors go into a furnace’s lifespan. While an oil furnace tends to last around 15 to 25 years, natural gas and propane furnaces average 15 to 20 years. An electric furnace can last between 20 and 30 years.

Altitude and a demanding climate can impact the lifespan, but only if the furnace isn’t set up and maintained correctly. If the furnace is adjusted properly and consistently maintained over time, it can achieve the same lifespan as a furnace in an area with a lower altitude. By understanding how altitude fits in, what actually drives furnace life expectancy, and warning signs to watch out for, you can find out how to extend the lifespan of your furnace.

What Actually Determines How Long a Furnace Lasts

The average furnace life expectancy is just a rough guide. In reality, lifespan is less about a fixed number and more about a few key factors.

• Maintenance History: One important factor in a furnace’s lifespan is whether it receives regular maintenance to keep combustion clean and catch wear early.
• Run Time and Climate Demand: A furnace that has to work harder due to a long, cold winter will end up aging faster.
• Correct Sizing and Installation: When a furnace is poorly sized or installed incorrectly, it may experience premature wear and short cycling.
• Proper Altitude Setup: Furnaces can last just as long in Fort Collins and Loveland’s high altitude, but they must be adjusted properly to burn cleanly and run efficiently. A badly adjusted furnace ends up working much harder than it should.
• Filter and Airflow Care: Restricted airflow can strain components, which is why maintenance and filter changes are so important.
• Build Quality and Fuel Type: Some furnace fuels and builds last longer than others.

How Altitude Actually Fits In

So, how long do gas furnaces last? Due to Fort Collins’ higher elevation, there is less oxygen available for combustion. This means that gas furnaces must be set up differently than they are at sea level. As long as the furnace is set up properly and maintained, the altitude should not play a significant role in the furnace’s lifespan.

The real risk is that the furnace may not have been adjusted correctly for the altitude. Similarly, combustion and airflow problems can cause increased wear. Fortunately, the risk of these issues can be reduced through proper setup and maintenance.

Signs Your Furnace Is Near the End

If you notice the following signs your furnace is dying, you may need to invest in a new unit.

• Age: While age alone doesn’t mean you need a replacement, the odds are increased if you notice the other signs and your unit is getting older.
• Rising Repair Frequency and Cost: Multiple repairs in a short time span are an indication your furnace may need a replacement. If the repair costs almost as much as a replacement, getting a new furnace may be a better choice.
• Climbing Energy Costs: A furnace can require more energy to heat your home when its energy efficiency starts to decline.
• Uneven Heating or Comfort Issues: If your rooms won’t stay warm, it may be time for a new unit.
• Short Cycling or Frequent Lockouts: A furnace that is struggling may not run a full cycle.
• Visible Wear: Visible corrosion or rust on the unit can indicate deterioration, while a technician may identify cracks or damage to the heat exchanger during an inspection.
• Safety Flags: A cracked heat exchanger and carbon monoxide (CO) concerns are immediate signs you need repairs or a furnace replacement in Fort Collins. Because of the safety risks involved, these signs mean you should immediately call for help.

One sign alone rarely settles the decision. If you notice multiple problems at once, it’s likely time for a furnace replacement.

Repair or Replace: A Practical Framework

There are a few things you should consider as you decide between furnace repairs or a full replacement.

First, you need to consider the repair cost against the furnace’s age and the price of a replacement. A costly repair on an older unit is likely not worth it. In comparison, a minor repair on a relatively new system is generally a good idea.

A system that is generally reliable and efficient is likely worth repairing. If investing in an energy-efficient furnace or new heat pump would lower your energy costs, it may be worth investigating a new one. Similarly, safety issues, like a cracked heat exchanger or CO concerns, can strongly favor replacement.

If you’re going to replace the unit, it’s always better to do it on your schedule. Don’t wait for an emergency replacement. From flexible financing to same-day services, Balance Point can help with all of your heating and cooling installations. We’ll evaluate your situation and help you determine whether a repair or replacement makes more sense.

FAQs

How long does a gas furnace last? 

A typical furnace often lasts around 15 to 20 years if it has been maintained properly. The exact furnace lifespan will vary based on the unit’s maintenance history, run time, sizing, and setup. Through consistent maintenance and tune-ups, you can catch minor issues before they worsen, prevent breakdowns, and extend the lifespan of your HVAC equipment.

Does altitude shorten furnace life in Fort Collins? 

Altitude isn’t a dramatic factor on its own. If the unit has been set up correctly for our elevation and maintained properly over the years, it can last a normal length of time. Improper altitude setup or inadequate maintenance can contribute to premature furnace wear. Both of these factors can generally be avoided by making sure your furnace is properly adjusted and maintained. 

When should I replace my furnace instead of repairing it? 

Deciding when to replace a furnace will depend on the age of the unit, the cost of repairs, and the price of the replacement. If you need to perform a major repair on an aging furnace, a replacement is more likely to be the right answer. Similarly, comfort issues and unusually high energy bills are also signs that a replacement may be needed in the near future.

What are the signs my furnace is dying? 

Before a furnace dies, it will typically show signs of declining performance. You may notice rising repair costs, short cycling, visible rust, safety problems, uneven heat, and higher energy bills. If you notice multiple signs, it’s a strong indication that there may be a problem.

Is it worth planning a furnace replacement before it fails? 

Yes, it is far more convenient to replace a furnace on your own schedule than it is to call for an emergency replacement during a cold snap. Planned replacements also give you time to choose the right system without pressure.

Schedule Your Next Furnace Evaluation

Unsure how long your furnace will last? If you are considering a furnace repair or replacement, Balance Point offers honest assessments and upfront pricing in Fort Collins and Loveland.

We will tell you when a repair still makes sense and walk you through your options, so you can make a decision without pressure.

Reach out to book your next furnace inspection today.

A furnace blowing cold air is an immediate cause for concern on a cold winter day. By understanding common causes of this issue and which signs to look for, you can determine when you can fix the problem yourself and when you need to reach out to a professional heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) technician. Balance Point Heating, Cooling & Plumbing offers 24/7 services and the fast diagnostics you need to keep your family warm.

What You Are Experiencing

If you’re experiencing this issue, you may notice your furnace is running but not heating. Even when air is coming out of the vent, it feels cool or cold instead of warm. 

The good news is that, at the start of the heating season, the likely cause is also the simplest. The next few sections walk through what to check first, what to check next, and which causes call for a technician.

Check This First: Thermostat Fan Setting

Thermostat settings are the most frequent cause of a furnace blowing cold air. Your thermostat has an “on” and “auto” mode. When the furnace is in “on” mode, the blower runs constantly. Even if the burners are off between heating cycles, the fan will keep going. You’ll feel cool or room-temperature air coming from your vents. 

When your thermostat is set to “auto,” the fan generally runs as part of the furnace’s heating cycle. The air from the vents should feel warm. 

If this is the cause of your furnace fan blowing cold air, it is not a malfunction or breakdown. You simply have to change the setting, and the problem will be fixed.

Check This Next: Filter and Airflow

After you have checked the thermostat settings, the next step is to look for filter and airflow issues. Both of these problems can restrict airflow and cause your furnace to overheat, triggering a safety mechanism that shuts off the burners.

Airflow problems can stem from a severely clogged filter, a dirty blower or coil, or closed or blocked vents and returns. You can troubleshoot by replacing the filter. Then, check each vent to verify that it is open and unblocked. Afterward, note whether warm air returns.

Causes That Need a Technician

So, why is my furnace blowing cold air? If your settings and airflow are fine, the cause is likely related to the ignition, gas, or control system.

• Ignition or Flame-Sensor Failure: If the burners do not stay lit when the furnace tries to fire, only the fan will run. This type of start-then-quit pattern often happens if there is an issue with the ignition or flame sensor.
• Gas Supply Issue: A closed valve, supply interruption, or issue with the gas control can result in no flame. As a result, the furnace will not be able to heat.
• Overheating Safety Lockout: Repeated overheating can cause the furnace’s safety controls to shut off the burners or, on some systems, trigger a lockout. The fan will still function, so you may feel cool air coming from the vents.
• Failed Control Board: If the board mismanages the heating sequence, it may result in the furnace blowing cold air.
• Ductwork Losing Heat: Long runs through unconditioned spaces can result in air that arrives cooler, even if the furnace is heating properly. Damaged and leaky ducts can also lead to the loss of conditioned air.
• Condensate or Pressure-Switch Fault on High-Efficiency Units: If a condensate blockage interferes with proper pressure or drainage, the furnace’s safety controls may prevent the burners from operating.

The Altitude Factor in Northern Colorado 

In Northern Colorado, it’s also important to consider the altitude factor. High altitude impacts gas combustion in a way that does not affect heat pumps or air conditioners. 

High altitudes have thinner air, so less oxygen is available for combustion. If the furnace has not been properly set up for the altitude, it may not burn gas as cleanly or efficiently as intended. Altitude, combustion, and airflow problems can also mean that your furnace has less margin before safety systems engage and shut the burners down.

Combustion adjustments are not a DIY repair. If you need to adjust your furnace’s combustion, reach out to Balance Point for help.

Safe Checks Before You Call

Before you call for help, there are a few basic steps you can take to troubleshoot on your own. For your safety, you should never open the burner compartment or bypass safety switches. Do not adjust the gas valve or altitude settings yourself. If the furnace will not stay lit, do not keep retrying it.

• Check 1: Set the thermostat fan to “auto” and the system to “heat” mode. The setpoint must be above room temperature for the furnace to turn on.
• Check 2: Change the air filter. Check to see whether the vents and returns are open. 
• Check 3: Check your furnace power switch and the breaker to see whether they are on. Verify that the gas is on, but do not adjust gas controls yourself.
• Check 4: Pay attention to whether the furnace lights and how quickly the furnace shuts off after it starts.

When To Call Balance Point

If your Fort Collins furnace is not heating and basic troubleshooting does not help, you can reach out to Balance Point for emergency repairs. The following signs are indications that your furnace needs to be evaluated by a professional.

• The cold air continues after you set the fan to “auto” and replace the air filter.
• You cannot get the burners to light, or they light and shut off repeatedly.
• There is a gas odor. For your safety, you should immediately evacuate your home and call your utility provider from a safe location if you notice any sulfur-like scents.
• Your gas furnace has no heat during a cold snap. This is an urgent comfort and safety issue, so you should call for help right away.
• Your furnace shows an error code or is locked out.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my furnace blowing cold air when the heat is on?

The most common reason this happens is the thermostat setting. If the fan is on “on” mode instead of “auto” mode, the blower will run between heating cycles. Try changing the setting to “auto.” If this doesn’t work, you may have an ignition, airflow, or gas problem.

What does “on” versus “auto” mean on my thermostat? 

“On” mode makes the fan run whether the furnace is on or off. In “auto” mode, the fan only runs during active heating, so the air should generally be warm while the furnace is operating properly.

Can a dirty filter make my furnace blow cold air? 

Yes. Clogged filters can restrict airflow and cause the furnace to overheat. As a result, the burners will shut off as a safety measure, and the fan will remain on.

Why does only cold air come out during a cold snap? 

Heavy demand can expose weaknesses and marginal problems that aren’t obvious during milder weather. If your furnace blows cold air, it’s a good idea to schedule a prompt diagnostic appointment.

Is furnace cold air an emergency? 

Not necessarily. However, experiencing no heat during freezing temperatures, gas odors, and lockouts should always be dealt with immediately. Our team offers flexible financing, same-day services, and maintenance memberships, so you can get the furnace tune-ups, replacements, and repairs you need.

Solve Your Furnace-Related Issues

Unsure why your furnace is blowing cold air? If your furnace still blows cold air on “auto” mode, Balance Point offers same-day diagnostics with upfront pricing in the Fort Collins and Loveland area.

Our team will quickly work to determine the cause. Then, we’ll explain your options clearly and help you decide on the next step without any pressure.

Reach out to book your next furnace repair service.

In Fort Collins, Loveland, and the Northern Colorado area, homeowners often notice furnace flame sensor issues after the first cold snap arrives. After months of idling, the furnace tends to run harder, exposing underlying problems. At Northern Colorado’s elevation, proper furnace setup and combustion are especially important because lower air density can affect combustion performance.

Fortunately, this is one of the more common and more fixable furnace problems. At Balance Point Heating, Cooling & Plumbing, we can quickly diagnose and repair furnace-related issues.

The Pattern You Are Seeing

If this is the issue, you’ll notice that the furnace ignites, the burners light, and the furnace runs briefly. Then, it shuts down, and the cycle starts all over again.

This pattern, in which a furnace starts and then shuts off after a few seconds, often indicates a flame-sensing problem. By understanding what a flame sensor does, why a dirty one is an issue, and common signs to look for, you can determine when you can troubleshoot yourself and when you need professional furnace repairs.

What the Flame Sensor Does

In your furnace, the flame sensor is a thin metal rod that sits in the burner flame. It confirms whether the flame is actually present. If it does not sense a flame within a few seconds, the control board shuts off the gas to prevent unburned gas from being released into your home.

This shutdown is a deliberate safety feature and not a failure of the system. When it happens, you may notice that the furnace short cycles on ignition. Although the ignition succeeds, the sensor fails to confirm the flame and shuts down the system before trying again.

Why a Dirty Sensor Causes the Furnace To Start Then Quit

The furnace flame sensor functions by detecting a tiny electrical current through the flame. Over time, oxidation, carbon, or other residue can coat the rod and interfere with that signal. This buildup blocks the flame-sensing current, so the furnace reads that no flame is there and shuts down, even though the burners are actually lit.

As buildup accumulates, the flame signal may become weaker or intermittent, eventually causing more frequent shutdowns or ignition failures. Eventually, the furnace may barely stay lit.

This gradual process is the reason why flame sensor problems are often first noticed during cold weather. Because the furnace must run more frequently, a marginal signal can finally fail.

Other Causes of the Same Symptom

While the flame sensor is the most common cause, there are several other problems that can cause the same start-then-quit pattern. One of our technicians can help you quickly determine the underlying cause through a professional evaluation.

• Clogged or restricted flue or exhaust: When a vent is blocked, it can trigger a safety shutdown.
• Faulty igniter or gas valve: Problems with the ignition system or gas supply can cause failed or interrupted heating cycles, although the exact symptoms may differ from those of a dirty flame sensor.
• Failing control board: When a furnace lights then goes out, it may be due to the board misreading or mishandling the flame signal.
• Restricted airflow from a dirty filter: Restricted airflow can cause the furnace to overheat and trigger a safety shutdown, producing symptoms that may resemble other short-cycling problems.
• Blocked condensate drain on high-efficiency furnaces: For high-efficiency furnaces, a pressure switch shutdown due to a blocked condensate drain line can cause the same start-and-quit problem.

While noting the pattern and symptoms can narrow down the potential causes, the only way to know the cause for sure is by having a heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) technician test your furnace.

Safe Checks Before You Call

As a homeowner, there are a few things you can check on your own. However, furnace flame sensor cleaning and repairs should be left to the professionals. While sensor cleaning is often described as a simple task online, the risk of part damage and gas leaks means that this is not a DIY project.

• Check 1: First, check the air filter. Dirty filters can restrict the furnace’s airflow. Replace it as needed. Then, confirm that the supply and return vents are open and unobstructed.
• Check 2: Verify that your thermostat is set to “heat” mode. Set the thermostat several degrees warmer than room temperature to see if it triggers the furnace to turn on.
• Check 3: Note the timing of when the shutoff occurs. Track the number of seconds before it shuts off and how frequently it retries.
• Check 4: See whether the furnace stays locked out after multiple failed attempts.

Important safety note: For the safety of your family, home, and furnace, you should never disassemble the burner assembly. Do not attempt to clean the flame sensor yourself. Improper cleaning or excessive abrasion can damage the sensor. You should also never touch the gas valve or wiring. If the furnace keeps failing, do not keep forcing it to retry.

When To Call Balance Point

You should always call for help if the previous checks did not fix the problem. We also recommend reaching out for professional Fort Collins furnace repairs if you notice any of the following symptoms.

• Your furnace repeatedly starts and shuts off.
• The furnace is locked out.
• There is a gas odor. If this occurs, immediately leave your home and contact your gas utility before you do anything else.
• The furnace is unable to stay lit long enough to warm up your home.
• You noticed soot, an unusual flame color, or a burning odor.
• The furnace has had repeated flame-sensor problems in the same season. Often, this signals a deeper combustion issue.

How a Technician Fixes It

Our technicians can fix the problem by cleaning or replacing the flame sensor as needed. We’ll inspect the flame and test the flame-sensor signal to verify proper operation. Besides confirming safe combustion, our technicians will also inspect your burners and igniter for issues.

In many cases, proper cleaning is enough to restore the signal. If the problem returns after cleaning, the flame sensor may need replacement, or the furnace may require further diagnosis to identify another underlying issue. Scheduling annual tune-ups and keeping up with routine maintenance can help you avoid repeat repairs.

FAQs

Why does my furnace start then shut off after a few seconds?

In most cases, this occurs because the furnace flame sensor is dirty and unable to confirm the flame. As a result, the control board shuts off the gas supply to prevent unburned gas from continuing to flow. However, other ignition and airflow problems can cause similar symptoms, which is why professional diagnostics are important.

Can I clean the flame sensor myself?

While cleaning the flame sensor might sound simple, the sensor sits in the burner assembly next to the gas valve. Because of the gas and combustion components involved, it is better to leave all sensor cleaning and testing to a technician.

How long does a flame sensor last?

A flame sensor can last for years, although buildup can slowly accumulate. Through regular maintenance, you can catch a weak signal before it fails unexpectedly in the middle of a cold snap.

Is a furnace that keeps shutting off dangerous?

The shutdown is a safety feature designed to protect your furnace, home, and family. While the shutdown itself is a protective response, the condition triggering it may require professional attention. If your furnace frequently shuts off, you notice soot, or there is a gas smell, you should call for repairs. For gas smells, immediately leave your home and call your gas utility provider.

Why did this happen suddenly in cold weather?

When the weather turns cold, furnaces are used more intensively. A previously marginal flame signal may finally fail under the heavier demand.

Diagnose Your Flame Sensor Issues

Struggling with your furnace lighting and quitting over and over again? Balance Point offers same-day diagnostics, flexible financing, and upfront pricing in Fort Collins and Loveland.

We’ll quickly confirm the cause of your furnace flame sensor issue, discuss your options, and help you take the next step without any pressure.

Schedule your evaluation in Northern Colorado today.

In Northern Colorado, it is common for ACs to experience late-season strain if the system is running low on refrigerant. A system may have coped with low refrigerant levels when temperatures were lower in the early summer, but the sustained afternoon heat is too much. Our wide temperature swings can also mask leaks during the early stages because homes can recover overnight. 

Identifying AC refrigerant leak signs now means you can make a considered decision before next summer arrives. If you are unsure if a leak is present, you can always reach out to Balance Point Heating, Cooling & Plumbing for a professional inspection.

Refrigerant Does Not Get Used Up

So, why does my AC keep losing refrigerant? Many homeowners assume that ACs use refrigerant like a car uses oil. However, this is not the case. Technicians do not have to top off refrigerant lines like you top off oil. Because refrigerant circulates in a sealed loop, the only way for the levels to be low is if a leak exists.

Simply adding refrigerant without finding the leak would be a waste of money. To stop this problem from recurring, it is essential to understand the AC refrigerant leak signs, schedule a proper diagnosis, and get the leak fixed.

How a Refrigerant Leak Shows Up

Most of the time, low refrigerant symptoms in an AC are relatively subtle. The problem will not simply announce itself, so the symptoms can gradually build over time. If you notice the following signs, it is time to schedule refrigerant maintenance and repairs.

• Cooling That Has Weakened Gradually: Low refrigerant levels can make a house take longer to reach the set temperature. You may notice that air coming from the vents is not as cold as normal.
• Longer Run Times With Fewer Results: Even though your system seems to be running nonstop, your performance levels have not improved.
• Ice on the Indoor Coil or the Refrigerant Lines: When pressure levels drop inside the coil, the temperature can fall below freezing. In turn, this can cause ice to build up on the coil or lines.
• Water Around the Indoor Unit: After iced-up coils and lines melt, you may notice water around the indoor unit.
• Hissing or Bubbling Noises: A hissing or bubbling sound near the line set or indoor unit can occur when refrigerant escapes from a leak.
• Short Cycling or Safety Shutdown: When pressure levels are outside a safe operating range, it can trigger a protective shutdown.
• Rising Cooling Costs: A leak may be present if you experience rising cooling costs without any accompanying change in habits.
• Oily Residue at the Connections or the Outdoor Unit: Because refrigerant carries oil, you may notice an oily residue if it leaks out of your system.

Where Leaks Usually Happen

There are a handful of common locations where leaks most often occur, which makes detecting the leak easier.

• Evaporator Coil: Formicary corrosion can cause pinhole leaks that are challenging to locate and costly to fix.
• Condenser Coil: Due to outdoor weather exposure, debris, and physical damage, condenser coils are also a common location for leaks.
• Line Set Connections, Flare Fittings, and Service Valves: All of these locations can develop leaks due to wear, deterioration, or vibration.
• Line Set: The location where the line set passes through walls can develop leaks. Leaks can also occur if the line set becomes damaged. 
• Schrader Valves and Access Ports: While these leaks are relatively common, they are known for being comparatively easy to find.

The location of the leak will affect how hard it is to find and the cost of repairs. This is the main reason why our technicians must locate the leak before we can create an accurate quote.

Why Topping Off Is Not a Repair

If you have an AC refrigerant leak in Fort Collins, you cannot simply top off the unit. Adding refrigerant will make it appear to run fine temporarily until the refrigerant escapes again. Over time, low refrigerant causes the compressor to work harder and run longer. This can eventually result in a compressor failure.

Repeated recharges add up over time. Rather than spend money on them, it makes more sense to invest in an actual fix or replacement. Our team can quickly locate the leak, evaluate whether a repair is necessary, then perform the recommended repair or replacement. Once the refrigerant lines are sealed, we can recharge the unit to the manufacturer’s specifications.

How a Technician Finds a Leak

Our technicians locate leaks through a methodical process. We start by taking system pressure and temperature readings to verify that a refrigerant problem exists. Then, we’ll inspect for signs of physical damage or oil residue. When necessary, we may use electronic leak detection, ultraviolet dye, or nitrogen pressure testing to find the source of the problem. Often, diagnosing leaks in the evaporator coil takes the longest because the coil sits inside the air handler cabinet.

Once we’ve determined the source, we can recommend the best path forward. In most cases, the next step is either a fitting repair, coil replacement, or AC replacement.

What Refrigerant Changes Mean for Your Repair

Refrigerant rules have been changing, and some homeowners have heard conflicting things. On January 1, 2025, the manufacture and import of new residential R-410A systems ended. Instead, new residential equipment now uses lower-GWP A2L refrigerants, like R-454B and R-32.

If you are worried about an AC Freon leak and your current system, there is no cause for concern. Your R-410A system remains legal to operate and service. The only difference is that refrigerant supply can tighten over time for older systems. If you have an aging system that requires significant repairs, this means that there is one extra factor to consider.

It should also be noted that A2L refrigerants cannot be used with an R-410A system. If you want to switch to an A2L refrigerant, you’ll need to replace the AC first.

FAQs

Does my AC need refrigerant? What are the signs of low Freon in an AC? To get a better understanding of how refrigerant repairs work and when an AC replacement is needed, check out some of our most frequently asked questions.

Does an AC need refrigerant added regularly? 

No. Because refrigerant circulates in a closed system, low levels mean there is a leak. 

Can I still run my AC with a refrigerant leak? 

While the unit will run if you have an AC refrigerant leak in Fort Collins, it creates strain on the compressor and leads to poor cooling performance. As a result, the best option is to get a professional diagnosis instead of continuing to run the unit.

Is a refrigerant leak dangerous to my family?

With most residential leaks, refrigerant disperses into the air instead of accumulating. Because of this, the biggest danger is to your equipment and bottom line. However, it is important to note that A2L refrigerants are mildly flammable, so timely leak repairs are necessary.

How long does leak detection take? 

It can vary based on the location. While a fitting or valve leak can be located relatively quickly, small evaporator leaks take more time and require more thorough testing.

Should I repair the leak or replace the system? 

It all depends on the location of the leak, the age of the equipment, and how repair costs compare to a replacement. A technician can help you compare repair costs to the price of a new AC unit.

Fix Your Refrigerant Leaks

Experiencing AC refrigerant leak signs in Fort Collins or Loveland? Balance Point offers same-day diagnostics with upfront pricing. Plus, our Whole Home Comfort Plan makes it easier to detect and prevent future leaks.

Our team will locate the leak, explain the problem, and walk you through the repair and replacement options with no pressure.

Your air filter is designed to improve your home’s air quality and protect your heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) system. Over time, the filter can become loaded with dust, allergens, and other particles. Once this occurs, it must be replaced.

When it comes to how often to change an air filter, the general rule of thumb is not the best option for our region. Instead, we’ll take a look at replacement schedules based on your filter type, when filters should be changed early, and why timely replacements are necessary.

Why “Every 90 Days” Is Not a Real Answer

Whenever you’ve opened an air filter in the past, you’ve probably noticed that it says to change your filter every 90 days. In reality, the 90-day figure is a starting point and not the most accurate answer. This 90-day figure assumes an average household, with an average climate, and an average level of use. The problem is that very few homes are perfectly average in all three areas.

Your air filter replacement schedule will vary based on your filter thickness, household conditions, season, and air quality. Once you’ve figured out a basic schedule, there is a simple way you can check to see if your filter needs to be replaced early.

Filter Thickness Changes Everything

So, how often should I change my AC filter? The answer heavily involves your filter thickness. A thicker filter is capable of holding more material before airflow suffers, so you can stretch the intervals between changes. You must determine which filter type you have before you set up a replacement schedule.

1-Inch Disposable Filters: 30 to 90 Days

These filters should generally be replaced every 30 to 90 days, but replacements should occur more frequently during periods of peak use. In Fort Collins, you’ll need to check for signs of a dirty air filter monthly.

4-Inch and 5-Inch Media Filters: 6 to 12 Months

At a minimum, you should replace a 4-inch media filter every 6 to 9 months. A 5-inch filter should be changed every 9 to 12 months.

What Actually Speeds Up Filter Loading

Two identical homes on the exact same street can end up requiring very different filter replacement intervals based on the following factors.

• Pets: This is especially true if you have heavy shedders or multiple animals.
• Household Size and Activity: Increased foot traffic means there is more dust in the air.
• Smoke Season: When smoke season arrives, indoor air quality (IAQ) can decline as fine particulates end up indoors. 
• Construction and Renovations: New construction, like homes in the growth corridor, loads filters faster because of the added dust. 
• Allergies or Respiratory Issues: While your family’s allergies will not make the filter load faster, they will affect how frequently you need to replace it. Especially during peak allergy season, more frequent filter changes may be necessary to keep your family comfortable.
• Continuous Fan Operation: If you run the fan continuously instead of setting it to auto, the filter will need to be changed more often.
• Dry, Dusty Conditions and Wind Events: Northern Colorado’s climate can shorten baseline replacement intervals for local HVAC systems.

In Fort Collins and Loveland, our climate and local conditions mean that we tend to fall on the shorter end of published intervals.

A Seasonal Schedule That Fits Northern Colorado

The right filter change interval changes throughout the year, which is one reason why filters are so frequently changed at the wrong time.

Summer

During summertime in Northern Colorado, our systems run long cooling cycles each day. As fine particulates from wildfire smoke and haze move into the region, the filters become loaded much faster than they do during the rest of the year. Because of this, filters should be checked monthly.

Fall

Fall is the transition point. It is a practical moment for changing your filter before the heating season begins.

Winter

In winter, homes in Loveland and Fort Collins are often closed up. The same air is recirculated and heated, leading to dry indoor conditions that keep dust airborne longer. How often you need to change the furnace filter will be impacted by how intensely the furnace is used during our cold stretches.

Spring

During springtime, the Front Range experiences grass pollen, cottonwood pollen, and wind events that can clog air filters. Because of the added allergens and dust in the air, monthly filter checks are necessary.

No matter what season it is, you can easily determine if a new filter is needed by holding it up to light. If light won’t pass through the filter easily, it needs to be replaced. When you install the new filter, you should always write the date on it so that you can easily track when the next replacement is needed.

What a Dirty Filter Actually Costs You

Changing your air filter in Fort Collins isn’t just a housekeeping chore. It’s an important task for boosting your comfort, energy efficiency, and performance.

• Comfort: When airflow is restricted, your rooms receive less conditioned air. The far end of your home may struggle to cool off as quickly as the rest of the house.
• Operating Cost: Dirty filters force the system to run longer to reach the same temperature.
• Frozen Evaporator Coil: A dirty filter prevents air from flowing across the evaporator coil. Because this coil is designed to absorb heat, poor airflow can result in the coil icing up.
• Short Cycling: In heating mode, restricted airflow can cause overheating and safety shutdowns. 
• Equipment Strain: Over time, the blower must work against the added resistance. This increased wear can eventually lead to premature breakdowns and repairs.
• Indoor Air Quality: A loaded filter cannot do the job it is made for, so your home’s IAQ can suffer.

Choosing the Right Filter, Not the Highest Rated One

If you’ve ever wondered “What MERV rating should I use?”, you’re not alone. The MERV rating represents how effectively a filter captures airborne particles of specific sizes. A higher MERV rating means it is better at removing contaminants. 

Although it might intuitively seem that a higher MERV rating is always better, this is not the case. A denser filter restricts airflow more, which can be an issue if your system is not designed to handle it. The right filtration level balances your equipment’s abilities with your filtration needs. 

Most homes benefit from having a mid-range MERV rating. However, you should talk to your HVAC technician about your options if anyone in your home has allergies.

FAQs

For a deep dive into AC filters and airflow, check out some of our most frequently asked questions.

How often should I change a one-inch filter? 

How often to change the air filter is different in Northern Colorado. While the filter’s package might recommend 30 to 90 days, the real figure is closer to 30 days in our area. Ideally, you should check your filter at least once per month.

Do I need to change the filter in winter, too? 

Yes, you should change the filter in winter as well. In most Northern Colorado homes, heating and cooling systems share the same filter. Make sure to change the filter as part of your pre-winter checklist. Then, check it monthly to see if it needs to be replaced.

Can a dirty filter stop my AC from cooling?

It can. When the filter is dirty, it restricts airflow. This can result in poor cooling performance and a frozen coil.

Is a higher MERV rating always better? 

Not always. A denser filter will restrict airflow, which can cause added wear on a system that is not designed to handle it.

Does a washable filter work as well? 

Although washable filters can reduce waste, they are generally less effective at filtering fine particulates. Additionally, they must be completely dry before they are reinstalled.

What if I forgot when I last changed it? 

If you cannot remember when you last replaced the filter, go ahead and change it now. Then, write the date on the new filter frame so that it is easy to remember next time.

Optimize Your Home’s Airflow

Unsure how often to change your air filter? If you’re experiencing airflow issues in the Fort Collins or Loveland area, Balance Point Heating, Cooling & Plumbing offers the maintenance visits and upfront pricing you need.

As a Whole Home Comfort Plan member, you can take advantage of scheduled maintenance visits. We’ll make sure your filter and system are properly cared for, so you can enjoy a better level of comfort and energy efficiency.

Thanks to Northern Colorado’s dry air, an evaporative cooler can be a good choice for summertime comfort. Also known as swamp coolers, these systems cool your home by passing warm air over a moistened surface. While these systems work well during dry weather, they can struggle once late-summer humidity arrives in Fort Collins.

At Balance Point Heating, Cooling & Plumbing, we can evaluate your existing heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) system to find the best setup for your home. To learn more about swamp coolers vs. central air conditioners, read on.

Why Swamp Coolers Are So Common in Northern Colorado

Do swamp coolers work in Colorado? Yes. There is a reason so many homes in Fort Collins have had evaporative coolers for decades. These units can be highly effective at cooling homes during dry weather conditions. The evaporative cooler is designed to pull in outside air across a water-saturated pad. This causes the air temperature to fall before the fan pushes the air into the home.

A swamp cooler only works if the air is dry enough. Dry air allows more evaporation, which improves cooling. If the air becomes humid, the evaporative cooler will struggle. Because of this, certain regions are better suited to this type of technology. By understanding when a swamp cooler vs. central air conditioner makes sense, you can make the right installation decision for your family’s comfort.

How Central Air Conditioning Works Differently

Central air conditioners function in an entirely different way. The system is designed to remove heat and humidity from the indoor air before recirculating it. It does not have to constantly pull in outside air.

Even if you do not know what type of system a home has, you can generally feel the difference. A swamp cooler adds moisture, so you have to open the windows to exhaust air. In comparison, central ACs remove moisture and are intended to work with a closed house.

This essential difference is what drives all of the other variations between the two setups. Comfort during humid weather, how your home feels at night, dust levels, and pollen exposure all stem from this functional difference.

Where Each System Actually Wins 

There is not one answer to whether an evaporative cooler vs. air conditioner is better. Instead, there are a few scenarios in which each HVAC system is better suited.

When an Evaporative Cooler Wins

A swamp cooler in Fort Collins tends to be the best choice if you care about a lower operating cost on dry days and efficient performance during the dry, early months of summer. This simple mechanical design is also ideal if you prefer fresh air over recirculated air.

When a Central AC Wins

Deciding to replace your swamp cooler with an AC may be the best choice if you want a consistent level of performance no matter how humid it is outside. Additionally, the AC’s humidity removal ability can make the same temperature feel cooler and more comfortable. Central AC systems are known for having quieter operation, no seasonal shutdown ritual, and excellent compatibility with a single thermostat and zoning. Plus, keeping the house closed can help reduce dust, pollen, and smoke infiltration.

For Fort Collins and Loveland homeowners, the choice generally comes down to how you want your home to feel during the humid weeks of the year and whether you want to open your windows. If you prioritize fresh air and are comfortable with reduced performance during humid weather, a swamp cooler is an effective option. An AC is a better choice if you want to keep allergens out and enjoy all-summer comfort.

The Signs Homeowners Notice First

Often, homeowners do not make their decision about converting a swamp cooler to central air on principle. Instead, each frustration adds up until they decide to make the switch. The following complaints are the ones we hear most often:

• The house feels sticky and damp during humid stretches and does not cool down.
• Open windows can let in pollutants and irritants, such as dust, wildfire smoke, and pollen. Street noise can make it harder to sleep at night.
• Your upstairs bedrooms remain warm all night, even though the swamp cooler is running.
• If you have a rooftop unit, water staining, mineral buildup, and roof access can make a swamp cooler challenging to maintain.
• Allergy symptoms worsen during the cooling season because windows have to be left open to let outdoor air in.
• Each spring, the unit’s pad, pump, and float need to be inspected, cleaned, or replaced as needed.

What Converting to Central Air Actually Involves

Once you’ve decided between a swamp cooler and central air, the next step is planning the conversion. Switching to a central AC is a bigger project than simply replacing one cooling unit with another. How much work is involved will depend entirely on your home.

The biggest variable is your ductwork. If you already have forced-air heating ducts, these can likely carry conditioned air with a few modifications. Other homes have evaporative-specific ducting or a single large ceiling register that cannot be used with a central AC. Homes that have boilers or radiant heat will not have any ducts at all.

When we set up your new AC, we’ll need to install an outdoor condensing unit, an indoor coil or air handler, refrigerant lines, and condensate drainage. We’ll also need to install the right-sized electrical circuit for the AC. Our team will handle the removal of your old unit, sealing the opening, and any wall or roof patching needed.

Ductless mini-splits are a good option if you do not have existing ducts. However, even if you opt for ductless mini-splits instead of a central AC, you’ll still need to have the old unit removed and all of the new components installed. 

Because of all the work involved, there is no way to provide a clear scope until we’ve had a chance to do an in-home evaluation. The total cost will depend on the ductwork requirements, home size, equipment needed, layout, and electrical capacity.

If You Are Keeping Your Swamp Cooler

Whether you’re concerned about energy efficiency on dry days or prefer having your windows open, there are situations where it makes more sense to have an evaporative cooler in Northern Colorado. If you do keep your swamp cooler, there are important maintenance and care tips that you should keep in mind.

As part of your annual maintenance, you’ll need to take care of the unit’s spring startup and pad replacement. Around midseason, check the water line, pump, and float for mineral buildup, leaks, or wear. Later on, the unit must be shut down in the fall and winterized to avoid freeze damage.

Late summer is a good point to decide if you want to keep your swamp cooler for next year. If you’re ready to make the switch, Balance Point can help you plan out the conversion before the next cooling season arrives. 

FAQs

To get a better understanding of whether an AC replacement is right for you, explore some of our most frequently asked questions.

Do swamp coolers work in Colorado? 

Yes, swamp coolers generally work well through much of Colorado’s cooling season, especially during hot, dry weather. Evaporative cooling is most effective in dry air, which is why these units work well for most of the year. In mid to late summer, humidity can rise, which makes these units less effective.

Why does my swamp cooler stop working well in August?

When humidity levels rise, less moisture can be evaporated. This lowers the cooling performance of the unit.

Do I have to leave windows open with a swamp cooler? 

Yes, swamp coolers need an exhaust path, usually through partially open windows, doors, or dedicated relief vents. If you want to keep your windows closed, you’ll need to switch to a central air conditioner.

Can I use my existing ducts for central air? 

Sometimes, existing ducts from forced-air heating can be adapted for central AC units. However, a swamp cooler’s ducts are usually not possible to adapt. During an in-home evaluation, we can determine whether your ducts can be used.

Is central air more expensive to run? 

Central air is normally more expensive to run on any given day, although this can vary based on utility rates, equipment efficiency, and other factors. However, these units are able to provide a consistent level of performance on humid and dry days. Unlike a swamp cooler, they do not need water to run.

Evaluate Your Home’s Cooling Options

Trying to choose between a swamp cooler vs. central air in the Fort Collins and Loveland area? Balance Point offers in-home evaluations, upfront pricing, and same-day estimates, so you can make an informed decision.

We will carefully analyze your ductwork and layout to determine what a potential conversion will involve. Then, we’ll discuss your options without pressure.

AC short cycling can occur for multiple reasons, making professional diagnostics essential. By determining the underlying problem, you can get your AC repaired or replaced before the next cooling season arrives. From testing your refrigerant levels to checking your airflow, Balance Point Heating, Cooling & Plumbing can help you find the right solution to your AC issues.

What Short Cycling Actually Looks Like

AC short cycling is when your system kicks on, runs for a few minutes, shuts off, and then turns on again a short while later. Even though the AC cycles repeatedly, the house never feels comfortable.

In normal circumstances, an AC might run for 15 to 20 minutes, two or three times per hour. On a hot Northern Colorado afternoon, a system will run longer to deal with the added heat, but the number of cycles will remain roughly the same.

Short cycling is simply a symptom and not a diagnosis. If your AC is cycling too frequently, you’ll need to determine the cause before you can address the symptom.

Why Short Cycling Is Worth Addressing

While your AC may still be able to cool when it short cycles, this problem still needs to be addressed. When the AC first starts up, it draws the most electricity. An AC that turns on and off repeatedly will use more energy. 

On the comfort side of the equation, short cycling can also result in stuffy, unevenly cooled rooms because a short runtime means less humidity is removed. Your AC will also feel the strain over time as repeated starts increase the wear on your compressor and controls.

The Most Common Reasons an AC Short Cycles

So, why does my AC keep turning on and off? Air conditioner short cycling tends to stem from issues with your unit’s airflow, heat rejection, or controls.

Restricted Airflow From a Dirty Filter

This is by far the most common reason, and it is also the easiest cause to rule out. A dirty filter means there is less airflow over your coil, which leads to your system shutting down as a protective mechanism.

The time of day can also indicate if you’re dealing with an airflow issue. A system that short cycles in the afternoon but appears fine in the evening is likely dealing with an airflow or heat rejection issue and not a control problem.

A Frozen Evaporator Coil

The evaporator coil is responsible for absorbing heat inside your home. When the evaporator coil freezes, the ice restricts airflow. The reduced airflow limits the AC’s cooling capacity, so the air coming from your vents may feel warm. If this situation is allowed to continue, the lack of airflow can cause the system to shut down on a safety control or keep operating inefficiently.

A Dirty or Blocked Condenser Coil

The condenser coil helps your AC release heat into the outdoor air. If the coil becomes clogged by Northern Colorado’s dust, cottonwood, or grass clippings, it will struggle to shed heat. The resulting high pressure can cause the compressor to trip. 

For homeowners in Loveland, Windsor, Timnath, and Fort Collins, this problem often occurs in late August. At the end of summer, we often experience long stretches of afternoon heat, haze from wildfire smoke, and excessive dust. After running from May onward, the outdoor coils can become blocked.

Low Refrigerant From a Leak

When your system has a refrigerant leak, it causes the pressure to drop below the unit’s safe operating range. As a result, the AC protects itself from damage by shutting down.

Thermostat Placement or Calibration

If the thermostat is placed near a window, in sunlight, next to a supply vent, or near your oven, it can sense the temperature incorrectly. When that happens, the thermostat may end the cooling cycle early or run it longer than the rest of the home needs.

Electrical and Control Faults

If your system has a worn contactor, weak capacitor, or a compressor tripping when it is overloaded, you can experience short cycling. When a capacitor is weak, it can draw excessive current and cause the system to overheat and shut down. Anything that overloads the compressor can lead to a safety shutdown. A worn contactor can cause intermittent power delivery or voltage drop.

An Oversized System

Many newer builds in the growth corridor were constructed with generously sized equipment. As a result, the oversized system is able to reach the thermostat’s temperature setting before completing a proper cycle. 

A Tripped Safety Float Switch

The safety float switch is designed to shut off your AC when it detects a rising water level in the condensate drain pan. This protects the AC and prevents water from leaking inside your house. Typically, a tripped safety float switch occurs when your drain line is clogged.

Reading the Clues: What Your Pattern Points To

By noting when and how the cycling happens, you can narrow down the cause of your Fort Collins AC short cycling.

• The Cycling Is Worse During the Hottest Part of the Afternoon and Better at Night: In this circumstance, you’re likely dealing with heat rejection issues. Your refrigerant charge, condenser coil, or outdoor fan is likely at fault.
• There Is Weak Airflow at the Vents Before the Cycling Starts: Often, this happens if you have an issue with your blower, filter, or coil.
• Ice Is Visible on the Indoor Coil or the Refrigerant Lines: This typically means there is a frozen coil, an airflow issue, or low refrigerant.
• The System Trips the Breaker and Makes a Humming Noise Before Switching Off: In many cases, this means that there is an electrical or compressor problem. For the safety of your home, family, and HVAC unit, stop resetting the breaker and call for repairs.
• Cycling Occurs No Matter What the Outdoor Temperature Is, and the House Cools Quickly Before Warming Quickly: This generally means that there is an issue with sizing or thermostat placement.
• Cycling Begins Right After a Thermostat Replacement or Smart Thermostat Upgrade: In this case, the likely cause is a problem with the wiring or configuration.

What You Can Safely Check Before Calling

Before you call for help with short cycling, unusual noises, and other symptoms, you can first rule out a few common issues on your own.

• Step 1: Check the filter and replace it as needed. Note how long it has been since the last replacement.
• Step 2: Verify that your supply and return vents are open and unblocked.
• Step 3: Clear away leaves, grass, and debris that are around the outdoor unit, but do not open the cabinet.
• Step 4: Check the thermostat mode and settings. Also, note whether the afternoon sun warms the thermostat.
• Step 5: Pay attention to when the cycles occur, how long they last, and how many minutes pass between cycles.

For your safety, you should never add refrigerant, open the electrical panel on the condenser, or bypass safety switches. If the breaker repeatedly trips, do not keep resetting it because there is likely an underlying electrical problem that must be addressed.

When To Call Balance Point

If the previous checks are unsuccessful, it is time to get professional help. We recommend booking repairs as soon as you notice the following signs.

• The system has a clean filter, but it cycles on and off more frequently than normal.
• Your breaker keeps tripping.
• The outdoor unit hums but does not start.
• There is visible ice on the refrigerant lines or the indoor coil.
• The house is not reaching the set temperature, even though the AC keeps turning on.
• The cycling started suddenly instead of gradually.
• Your cooling costs have increased, but there has been no other change in your family’s habits.

How a Technician Diagnoses Short Cycling

Once you reach out for help, our team will quickly perform airflow measurements, inspect the indoor and outdoor coils, measure the refrigerant pressure, and check the temperature readings. We’ll also verify that your thermostat is working, test electrical components, and review your cycle timing.

Ultimately, the type of AC replacement or repair you need will depend on which reading was out of range. This is why short cycling cannot be diagnosed by looking at the thermostat alone.

The good news is that late in the year is a good time for considering repairs and replacements. If our tests indicate that an aging or oversized system is to blame, late summer provides us with plenty of time to replace your AC before next summer’s first heat wave.

FAQs

For a better understanding of how short cycling works, explore some frequently asked questions.

How long should my AC run in one cycle? 

As the weather warms up, the cycles grow longer to cool your home. When your AC runs a few minutes then shuts off, it may be short cycling and should be inspected.

Is short cycling an emergency? 

It generally is not an emergency, but it can increase wear on your unit and lead to higher operating costs. Because of this, it is better to get the AC short cycling addressed earlier rather than later.

Can a dirty filter really cause this? 

Yes. Restricted airflow is a common reason why short cycling occurs. Fortunately, it is also easy to rule out.

My AC is new and it still short cycles. Why? 

A new AC may short cycle if it is oversized. It is reaching the ideal temperature too soon, so it does not complete a full cycle.

Should I keep resetting the breaker? 

No. Breakers are a safety feature. They are designed to trip when an electrical fault is present. If the breaker keeps tripping, you need to schedule an inspection.

Prepare Your AC for Next Summer

Is your AC turning on and off every few minutes? Balance Point offers same-day diagnostics with upfront pricing in Loveland and Fort Collins. From our Whole Home Comfort Plan to 100% no-interest financing, we work to make HVAC services as convenient as possible for local homeowners. 

Once you reach out to our team, we will quickly identify what is causing the AC short cycling. We’ll explain your options and help you decide on the next step without any pressure.